Alappuzha Part-II

Day 2 - 16th Jan,2009

Started at 6:30. Went straight to Ambalapuzha, 11 kms from Alappuzha. The kalabha utsavam was going on there. There was crowd but we had a good darshan. Took the token forthe famous offering of the temple - Palpayasam. The prasadom will be distributed at 12:30 only. We then proceeded to Mannarsala, the temple for Snake god. Around 10 tourist buses and numerous taxis were already parked outside the temple premises. Though there is heavy rush, you cannot feel the cr since people keep moving. It was pooja time. the offerings are done near the kodimaram ie. outside sanctum sanatorium. The speciality of the temple is that the poojas are done under the guidance of the female head of the family, which runs the temple. She is called Amma. Amma sits inside the temple and does chantings and poojas. One can have a darshan of Amma through a small window. Heard that only brahmins are allowed inside the temple. Since the morning itinery was only temple visits, we both were in the traditional attire (Dhoti and saree). And Satish had removed his shirt as is customary inside the temple. So after the pooja we were let in, with out any questions. We could speak to Amma and she blessed us and gave vibhooti as prasadom. We went to the Mana/Illam, to visit the main temple.

The Haripad Sumbhramanyan is 5 kms near of mannarsala. Went to Subramanyan temple. Thats a huge temple. Most parts of the Ootupura were in ruins.

Had breakfast and our next stop was Chakkulathu kavu. I was overwhelmed to see the crowd on the premises. It was as though there was some festival. Had to wait in the queue for half an hour. The good thing, there is no one to push you when you reach before the deity. They give ample time to have the darshan. Went around the temple. This is famous as Sabarimala for ladies. Another speciality is, temple allows entry for all people irrespective of their religious belief.

On our way back to Ambalapuzha, we stopped at Karumadikuttan to have a view of the Buddha statue. It is a half broken, black statue of Lord Buddha. We drove back to Ambalapuzha to collect the payasam. Had to wait there for an hour or so. Reached Alappuzha by 1:30. Had lunch and took some rest in the room. We had whole of evening at our disposal. We both have a fascination for greenery and wanted to have a look around the famous Kuttanad paddy fields.
Our drive was ready to show us and we started at 4:00p.m in the evening. It was indeed a visual treat to us. We went almost till Changanchery/ The sight from Nedumudi bridge was spectacular.
On the way back stopped at a drive in restaurant to have our evening tea. It was almost 6. We ordered tea and there was no snacks left there. Alappuzha is famous for non-veg and for pure veggies its tough. Thanks to Aryas chain of hotels, we survived our two days stay. In fact there were two of them close by in the area where we stayed.


The waiter said he will serve Kappayum,meenum (Cooked tapioca with fish curry as side). When asked for veg. side, he said, kadala (Brown chickpeas) will make a great combo. Served us a plate of steamed and sauteed tapioca with a bowl of hot and spice black channa curry. It was indeed a winning combo. Raju dropped us at the beach and we bid good-bye to him. Promising that we call him during our next visit to Alappuzha. He was indeed very sweet to enquire if we had a safe journey back home, the next day.


We spent an hour at the beach and returned to the hotel. Next morning, returned by the weekly Trivandrum-Mumbai train at 8:30, reaching Palakkad at 12 p.m.

Alappuzha/Allepey Part -I

Alappuzha trip was planned with the purpose of visiting Mannarsala, Ambalapuzha and other near by temples and a boat ride through the back waters. Satish said the priority is for temple visit. So if time permits, can consider boat ride. I had done enough googling and knew all these could fit in our schedule and just nodded to what he said.

As decided, we got into the Chennai-Alleppey express from Palakkad junction at 5:45. It arrived 20 minutes late. Till Ernakulam, the train was packed. After that, it was almost empty. We had arranged for rooms through a friend in a hotel. Took an auto to the hotel. It takes less than 10 minutes from the station. The first thing you notice is that the roads are straight and cuts at perpendiculars. I am seeing that for the frist time in Kerala.

Checked in and refreshed. It was 12:30. Had a chat with hotel manager regarding the sightseeing places etc. He immediately arranged for a cab and it was to arrive at around 1:30PM. Meanwhile we finished our lunch. The cab driver was Raju, an ex-serviceman and gulf returnee, in his early sixties. We told him our priorities. He suggested we go for a boat ride the same day and arranged a motor boat for about 4 hours at Rs.1000/-. Considering the usual rates they charge, this was cheap. He agreed to drop us near boat jetty and also to pick us and take to the Mullackal temple after the boat ride.

We paid the money to the motor boat owner,Jayan, prior to the ride. Abhilash, 20 something guy, was to drive us through the backwaters. He is an expert driver. Took us along the interiors and made us watch the sunset. Surprisingly, there was one house in the interiors of the backwaters which has the vast stretches of paddy land behind and the endless backwaters as the fence on the front side. the poor man ekes out a living by selling mineral water,biscuits and tender coconut. We stopped there. Had tender coconuts. Went around the paddy fields through his backyard. The floor of his house is at the same level of water in the lake. On the arrival of monsoon, his house is surely to be flooded with the first rain. He smilingly replies that they shift to the relief camps opened by government during those periods. He has emotional attachment to the house which is more that 75 years old. The ride through the quiet backwaters was very enjoyable and relaxing. It soothes your mind and body at the same time.

By 7:30 we returned back to the shore. Raju was ready to pick us up. We went to Mullackal temple, the famous temple of Alappuzha. Had nice darshan. Raju, then just took us along the beach front and dropped us back at the hotel.

Date of visit - 15,16,17th Jan,2009

Wayanad-Part III

Day 2 : Thirunelli temple, Kuruva Island and Banasura Sagar dam

That day being Id, Naushad had arranged for another cab. So that day's driver was Prakasan. He was an elderly gentleman, born and brought up in Wayanad. He entertained us with the history of Wayanad and showed us various adivasi colonies and told us about the habits of adivasis etc. We were to start at 8 today. Since we got the information the previous day that Thirnuelli temple will be closed by 10:30 A.M due to the ongoing construction work inside the temple, prepone the time to 6:30. The temple is 60 kms drive from Kalpetta. Most of the travel is through the forest area. Since it was morning, the driver said we could spot some elephants or deer. But we were not lucky. Reached the temple by 8:30. After the prayer, Satish had to offer Tharpanam to his father. So got the customary materials from the counter and had to walk to the Papanasini which is flowing behind the temple. Its another 300 metres walk through rocks. He performed the rituals and went to the temple to complete the pooja. Had breakfast at a small hotel near the temple. The food is okay. Not much of choice either.

The driver informed earlier that we will reach Kuruva for lunch and he will arrange for some home food, since we wanted vegetarian food. He called up Umesh and ordered lunch for two of us. We reached the banks of Kabini river by 11:30. Took a boat to reach the island. Prakash had told us to take a guide who will show around the island. We both did not have much idea of what to expect in the island. We took the entry tickets and one for guide service. An adivasi/tribal, Subramanian was ready to guide us through the island.

There was the changadam (raft made of bamboo) taking the tourists across to another island. The Kuruva island is in fact a collection of around 90 islands in the Kabini river. These islands are not inhabited by humans now. Some islands are just big enough to accommodate the lone huge tree in it. The trees are huge with spread out branches and the roots running through the island. Even in afternoon, not much sunlight was coming through. The guide told us we had to go take a different route. But just for the experience of going in a changadam, asked us to take a round trip.

I had a small bag with me. The guide said he will carry it and also asked us to remove our footwear. Our mission was to visit 11 islands by walking/trekking across the river. At some places, the water was knee deep. There were slippery rock underneath. It was wonderful experience. Had we known before , we might have opted out. For this kind of trekking, a guide is essential. He knows where to cross according the water current. There was considerable water and good flow in the river. It took around 3 hrs for us to get back to the starting point. From the last island visited , had to walk 2 km to reach the entry point.

Then we took the boat back where our car was parked. Headed to lunch. Sumesh served us with a very homely lunch. After lunch treated us with cooked tapioca and chammanthi.

We then proceeded to Banasura sagar dam. A great sight from the top. Walked the nearly 1 km stretch till the end of the dam. There is a boat ride. Did not go for that because of the long wait. There is a small garden near the dam. Sat there for half an hour and drove back to the hotel.





Day - 3

Checked out of the hotel at 8 in the morning. Went to Satish's friend's house. Went around their estate for 2 hrs. Covered only 25%. Had a sumptuous lunch and headed back home with a promise to return . There is a lot more to be explored in Wayanad.

Wayanad - Part II

Day 1

The cab , a blue Tata Indica, came on dot 11 A.M. It was comfortable for two of us. Naushad was to drive us the whole day. He told us, we will be visiting Edakkal Caves, Soochipara Falls and Pookot Lake for the day. Our first stop was Edakkal caves. Having heard a lot about Edakkal caves and I was very much thrilled with the thought of going there. Noushad left us at a point beyond which tourist vehicles are not allowed. You will have to walk more than a kilometre to reach the foot of the hill where the cave is situated. There is a jeep service which charge Rs.50 for 2 and parking charge of 20 for to and fro trip. We took the jeep since we had started late. Otherwise also, unless you have good stamina, taking the jeep service is good. Since there is more to climb. There are steps carved out of rock. The cave is almost on top of the hill. From the cave, by another 1/2 hr climb you will reach the top. Only till the cave, steps are there. Rest you have will to go trekking.

It was a spectacular sight from the top. The cave was awesome. The huge rocks and the slight gap between them were a sight you cannot miss.

The gap between the two giant rocks inside the cave

The small rock balancing on the edges of the two big rocks inside the cave

Our next stop was Soochipara water falls. The picnic spots in Wayanad is spread over the district. The distance between each spot must on an average 30 kms. The waterfalls is inside the forest and it is a protected area. So no vehicles allowed inside. During tourist season, permits are given for 2 or 3 jeeps to take the tourists to the water fall. The jeep guys charge Rs 25/person for one side trip. We reached there at about 2. And to walk one km in the sun was not favorable. So took the jeep. He dropped us near the steps which ascend to the waterfall. The way to the falls is narrow path, wide enough for a person to walk. As you walk down, you will have doubt if you are in the right direction since the water fall is not seen unless you reach near it. Since these spots are not heavily crowded, chances are less to spot any tourist coming on our way.

Waterfall is spectacular. You cannot go much near to it. You can bathe in the fall. No changing rooms for ladies though. You will have to adjust behind the huge rocks there.

The last spot for the day was Pookot lake, one of the biggest fresh water lake. Took a boat ride. Since i had a fall while climbing down the Edakkal caves, did not go for a pedal boat. Felt the decision was good, since the boatman Rajeev had so much to say about the lake and Wayanad. He showed us that the shape of the lake resembles the map of India. The lake is surrounded by forest and there is a pathway around the lake. Rajeev said the place is well guarded against pollution by tourists. Its safe for a lady to take a walk around the lake all alone. Tourism police is always on the watch.

Then proceeded to the View point .5 kms away from Pookot lake. You can have a breathtaking view of the valley from that point.

On return, he showed us the Muneeswaran temple, where a god is worshipped in chains. The story according to our drive Noushad, goes thus - Many hundred years ago, those areas were inhabited by tribals. One tribal has showed the way to British to Wayanad. The British beheaded the guide after reaching Wayanad so that he doesn't bring others the same way. It is believed, after that many accidents took place at that particular spot. That adivasi's ghost is believed to have been chained there so as not disturb the travellers passing by that point.

Reached the hotel around 6:00 PM. Had a shower. Went down to the vegetarian restaurant for dinner at 8 PM. The main point in choosing Woodlands was it had a separate veg restaurant, knowing well that Wayanad is predominantly Muslim area and finding veg food might be difficult.

Wayanad - Part 1

We both were planning for a break for sometime. Finally decided to go during the Ed-Gandhi Jayanthi holidays. Satish agreed to take an additional day off on 30th Sept. So dates decided. The major part was where to go? My first preferred destination was Coorg/Madikkeri. Browsed net for info and found many travelogues and tips on Coorg. And I found many mentioning about Wayanad too. Wayanad is in my must-see list for a long time. So focus shifted to Wayanad. Did some googling and found hotel info. Selected Woodlands hotel. Confirmed booking for two days. Decided the time of journey. Which all places we are going to see was not decided. Thought we will chart that after reaching Wayanad and having a word with the cab people. But wanted to see Edakkal caves, pookot lake and Soochipara. Rather these were places I have heard of at Wayanad. Apart from that all that I know it is more of Coffee plantations and 90% of the inhabitants are tribals/adivasis and its more of a forest with many hills.

We left early On 30th ie 3:50 A.M to be precise from our home on bike to the railway station. While Satish was busy bargaining the parking area guy of charges for 3 days parking, I heard the announcement for Yaswantpur train arrival. We had planned to take the Chennai Mail towards Mangalore which was at 4:30. Earlier the better. Rushed to the platform. Train arrived and got comfortably seated in the general compartment. Was very fresh that we didn't feel sleepy at all. At 7:30 reached Kozhikode station. Had a light breakfast at the VRR. Food was just average. Took an auto to the K.S.R.T.C stand. Bus was already waiting to Mananthavady. We had to get down at Kalpetta some 20 kms before that. Checked if it will go to Kalpetta and got seated in the bus. The route from Kozhikode to Kalpetta is a treat to the eyes, full of scenic beauty. There are f 9 hairpin bends. You can enjoy the travel as the bus goes up.

Reached Kalpetta town at 9:45 A.M. Took an auto to the hotel. Actually it was just 5 minutes walk. Checked in and booked a cab for sight seeing. Hotel people arranged the cab and it was to arrive at 11. We went to the room which was in second floor (No lifts). Room had two double cot beds neatly arranged, a small table and 2 chairs, TV, telephone and wall cupboard. There was just enough space to walk around the cot in the room. The bathroom is too small. It has 24 hrs hot water facility. Refreshed and had a cup of coffee along with the bread-butter-jam sandwich I had taken from home.

Contd..